A little humble restaurant amidst the country side fields; now renowned in the Top 50 Restaurants in the World. A diner's dream destination for its touch of sensibility; for me now, an unforgivably beautiful memory.
When I first looked into reserving a table for two at Dan Hunter's creative abode, I had little idea of what exactly was in store for me. I was simply searching for a food adventure that would take bubba and me far away from the busy life that now chases us dauntingly. It seemed like the perfect place to do the trick. How wonderfully excited we were to learn that Brae was recognised as #44 of the World's Best Restaurants just weeks before our visit in early April.
As certain produce became scarce before the dawn of winter, what was left was upon their farm would now become more or less precious gems upon our plate. Every item was seemingly more dear and carefully thought. We came here to witness a story, but instead partook in experience. I felt my heart connect from sea to land, with each element respected and appreciated for the beauty it brought to each plate. From the first step in, I felt right at home through the cool grey tones mixed with wood and whites. Nothing was overdressed; but instead, simple, sleek and relaxed. A sense of comfort, practicality without the flourishes of fancy fine dining but still refined and innovative enough to imprint a special mark on the palate. Staff were gracious with our entrance; striking friendly conversation and welcoming us with complimentary drinks. We chose to opt for the non-alcoholic pairing - a pleasant surprise in its own right.
To begin our luncheon, we welcomed five dishes paired with a jasmine, elderflower tonic with grapefruit and finger lime. In this first round of dishes, we were encouraged to use our hands for these petite sized items. I was delighted at the sight of bubbles(and clumsy) upon swirling this drink after the waitress added the little pops of fingerlime, much to her amusement. The mixture of sweet, fragrant aromats on the tongue with an undertone of fizziness and bitterness made for a welcome surprise to awaken my buds.First - prawn, nasturtium and finger lime. Wrapped as a vibrant green parcel, the prawn was hidden from sight. However, that first bite was absolutely gorgeous. Served sashimi-style, the prawn meat was delicately tender and the umami flavours dissipated with bursts of citric hints from the finger lime. We continued to a cucumber pickled with davidson plum and lemon myrtle. Connecting to native Australian roots, each bite was like an emphasis of flavour; the line of ants like staccato crunches that played curiously on one's senses.
Then - a raw pea and lemon aspen tart. The subtle scent of citrus kissed my sense of smell before gently on the tongue, while the pastry was crisp, crumbly and short. The peas, fresh yet still firm - if not, a little too much.
Fourth - smoked eel doughnut. Lying proudly on the plate without the necessities of any decor. Somewhat resembling churros, a lush, appetising golden brown colour. A thin crisp exterior with a light fluffy pillow of white inside. Again, the theme of umami with the eel repeats itself in the flavour of the doughnut; an indescribable savoury warmth on the tongue.
Fifth - a bowl of clams and tomato seeds, served with a chilled broth of pressed chives and desert lime. Acidity played its part harmoniously with the refreshingly smooth and savoury notes of the broth, while the plump clams added a bite of resistance to the dish.
To continue the amuse-gueule, we preceded to a barbecued beetroot seasoned with Brae farm honeycomb and rainbow trout roe. A beautiful masterpiece. Three ingredients; treated with such respect to appreciate the profound beauty in simplicity. Plated before us, the contrasts of the warm colours bleeding together, and so wonderfully. The beetroot, connecting us to the land with a soft earthy texture. Still firm. The honey comb, connecting us to the sky. Sweet, amber in flavour before dissolving into a sticky mess from the heat of the tongue. The roe, connecting us to the sea. Little pearls with a burst of umami juice to wash upon the shore of our senses. Invigoratingly exciting.
Paired with Iced Lapsang Souchong, fennel seed and orange, a light citric tartness again features in the menu. However, with it danced a light bitter smokiness from the tea to ensure the concoction remained grounded.
We continued to mains - Starting off with an eggplant and salt grass lamb washed with sweet onion juice, fragrant and acidic plants. Never have I ever had a piece of lamb so soft that it practically dissipated with little effort. Its presentation again, simplistic like origami but well received by the eye. Marinated in a lovely sweetness, the eggplant added a layer of earthiness to balance the dish. Paired together with a cos lettuce, granny smith juice - I dare say this was perhaps my favourite drink. The greens resembled somewhat the grass surrounding the farm, and had a lovely revitalising flavour. The glass had a salted hazelnut praline to provide texture and to bring it back to a happy medium.
We were also offered bread and butter as an intermediary between the next main. A slice of soft, tangy fluffiness with a dark, smokey crust baked earlier in the morning by the Brae team, it was a close competitor to the sourdough at the Lake House. Had it come out nice and hot, I dare say I would have found a new winner. However, I have to praise the house churned butter which came out beautifully like a scoop of vanilla ice cream (leaving me a little confused at first). Slightly cheesy, salty but spreading so beautifully on to the slice of bread, Hunter again highlighted how the simplest of things are perhaps the most beautiful. So when we were offered more bread and butter later on, we happily accepted.
Next came a piece of King George whiting, zucchini, leek and lemon with a side of Today's tomatoes. The skin is kept on the fillet and adds a touch of colour. The fish flaked away so delicately. Along with the lovely addition of the creamy greens - somewhat nutty in flavour, and silken on the tongue - the course is again very light, simplistic but faultless. The tomatoes were firm and provided a freshness and countered the softer textures already present on the plate. For this round, we were served Australian Sencha, citrus and lemon myrtle. Again, the light aromatic hints of acidic bitterness revisit the inaugural theme at the restaurant and make for the flow of lunch well versed.
We continued to plough through the Autumn menu - crayfish and pine mushrooms with Brae farm egg yolk, meat broth and seaweeds. Revising the theme of the ocean, I hoped this course would be kinder and it definitely was what I had hoped for, and then some more. Earthy textures and tones of the mushrooms felt like a golden Autumn sunset on the tongue; a dying soft warmth and humbleness. The egg yolk achieves a strong, creamy richness to the salted broth while the crayfish rekindles sweetness to the palette. Served with an infusion of echinacea and burdock root, one small sip was enough to wipe the memory of the tastebuds, while gently cradling my stomach with the lovely warmth offered.
After being told at the beginning of our dining, that the first section of dishes would come out and feature at random, we were uncertain but anticipated for the iced oyster. However, after three mains, and still no sign, we noticed other diners who had began later being served with this dish. Truth be told, I was disappointed that the flawless record was now a little smudged. Paying good money for an experience leaves you with the expectation of a flawless service. In saying so, I appreciate the apologies the Brae team offered and their efforts to reconcile their mistakes.
This backtrack caused a disjointedness and perhaps a little confusion on the tongue; which had now adjusted to warmer, heartier tones. The dish is intriguing in its own right, but was perhaps the portion was a little overbearing and had to be consumed in small doses. It is a very strong and bold dish; the oyster ice cream immediately transports me to the middle of the sea, while the green powder dusted over the top somewhat tasted of matcha.
For our final mains, we had the short rib of beef cooked overnight fermented and fried onions. The beef had formed a lovely outer crust, while the meat was soft, tender with a touch of resistance. The subtle hints of smoke created further depth to the short rib, while the onions had a clean sweetness and crispiness to cut through. Together with their 'genmaicha' - a mixture of Jin Mao Hou and toasted wild rice, the tea carried a biscuit-y earthern flavours which suited well with the beef.
To kick start dessert - red fruits lemon and lovage, wild cabbage and buckwheat with jun tea and berry syrup. An interesting beginning with the use of savoury items together with sweeter flavours - somewhat a homage to the Summer days which had left too quickly. The vibrant reds were beautiful and the powder dissolved in the mouth, while the plump berries gave a lush tartness to the dish. The drink resembles harmoniously to the dessert, and gives a floral sweetness to the dish.
We preceded to parsnip and apple. A beautiful parsnip crisp hid the apple and parsnip mousse, while dehydrated pieces of apple decorated the plate. The flavours resembled of my childhood favourite - apple pie. A white powder of freeze dried apple acted like snow on the plate. The smooth, custard-like parsnip worked well against the brittle crisp, while the tart apple flavour gave further bite to the dish.
The final drink served alongside this dish - pink lady and chamomile. The perfect indulgence before bed time I think. Warm apple tartness marrying with the tea made it feel like a lullaby whilst also emphasising the flavours of the apple and parsnip. The chamomile, calming my senses and leaving me content as our dining came to a conclusion.
To finish our experience - rhubarb and pistachio, blood and preserved blackberry. Bite size, the biscuit is chewy in texture. A little dense, but nothing too heavy due to the miniature size. The rhubarb adding a pop of tartness and a providing a fitting conclusion after an approximate four hour dining experience.
We were also offered a bunch of farm grown grapes. Produce at its best without the necessity of fancy dress ups. I cannot thank Brae enough for making this day memorable, and for taking the woes of everyday life seem so meagre in the surrounding serenity of Birregurra. I have yet to have such a dining that has left me so speechless, and to have sparked my emotions to such degree. I hope to return in the future and find myself lost in such beauty.
To my love - thank you for blessing me with six years to intertwine my story with yours. I hope the happiest is yet to come.
Brae Restaurant
A: 4285 Cape Otway Rd, Birregurra VIC 3242
Ph: 5326 2226
Ph: 5326 2226