With Christmas around the corner, there is a solid excuse for a few too many celebratory eats with loved ones. Being raised in an environment which did not celebrate this day meant majority of my experiences have been limited to the parameters of a family late lunch with no presents. Recent years have exposed me to the joys of this festivity and given me - a serial present buyer - a chance to live out the dream with present wrapping and hunting as well. My recent Christmas celebrations took me to Cutler & Co. With McConnell's booming success as a restauranteur, I had my fingers crossed that this would be a happy encounter. My concerns mainly rested on the ever-changing risque Sunday Lunch Menu; and whether each dish would be capable of meeting the high standards which customers would expect from such a successful chef.
It did not disappoint.
The restaurant itself was like the cool kid at school; sleek, modern and carried a sense of effortless confidence. Refined, simple yet bold mixed with a dash of fancy - but nothing over bearing. Staff were a pleasure to deal with; easy going and professional. The Sunday Lunch menu is designed in a manner for customers to relax and enjoy their dining experience. Appetizers and entrees are shared between tables, whilst main and dessert was left to the diner's discretion. I must note, this is no place to dine if you want a quick and easy lunch - my experience went over a duration of approximately three hours.
To begin - I first tried the bresaola served on a thin, potato crisp with pickled cucumber. The potato was brittle yet had some light chewy resistance, while the flavour of the bresaola was clean and light. It was not heavy and overpowering in salt, but rather well balanced with the pickle adding an additional staccato to the proud appetizer.
The baby radish heavily relied on the whipped cod roe to bring it to life. Ironically, the cod roe was the one that looked a little sad and lifeless while the radish was vibrant. Without the dip, it was bland. The whipper cod roe was a delight however, in its balance of sweet and freshness whilst being smooth and creamy (so enjoyable so, I had it with my bread).
The cracker had a light, aerated texture and a gentle seaweed fragrance. The eggplant was nice and sweet, but had made the cracker a little soggy where the dollops were.
Moving forward - the first two entrees were King fish and Zucchini. The king fish was served with smoked eel and coastal herbs. It was simple, with the soft delicate fish being complemented by sweet green strawberries that added slight resistance and crunch. Light, refreshing and an exemplary model of spring.
The zuchhini was served two ways; ribbon and chopped. It had been grilled and served straciatella; a creamy, fresh soft cheese. The salad was very clean and did not carry strong flavours, and was an interesting new experience for the palette. It felt however, as though it was missing an element to tie the dish all together - perhaps a hint of acidity.
Disappointingly, the wait between the next couple of entrees was comparatively long. First, we tried the smoked pork. The presentation resembled of Christmas on a plate, and we could not help but smile at the sight of it. The pork was well seasoned without being overly salty. It was thinly sliced and served with mustard, leek and apple - tying a sweet note to the dish. It was vibrant in flavour, without being too bold. Somewhat charismatic, and contemporary.
The roasted carrots smelt so delicious from the moment it came to our table. The intensity of the colours was inviting. The carrots; soft and sweet with a light crunch of almonds to add a nutty contrast. The lentils had been cooked with squid ink and added a chewy bite to the meal. The dish carried earthy undertones - the additional almond cream was a welcomed element.
For mains, I decided to be bold and different, by ordering chicken. Generally, restaurant 101 would tell me to stay away from chicken. I am glad I didn't. The chicken; absolutely tender and soft almost so that it melted in your mouth. Combined with pancetta to season the dish, and smokiness from the cauliflower and Pompeii onions, this course was well balanced and carried homely flavours that did not recede to a level of boredom after a few mouthfuls.
To finish, again I strayed from my normal choice and decided to go with the mango bar. Refreshing, creamy and sweet. On the side was a black rice pudding, which had a slight resistance in texture; adding depth to the melting bar. The jasmine cream was very light and soft in fragrance, ensuring that it did not overpower the dish. The almonds added a very delicate crunch and the fresh, diced mangoes were divine.
To begin - I first tried the bresaola served on a thin, potato crisp with pickled cucumber. The potato was brittle yet had some light chewy resistance, while the flavour of the bresaola was clean and light. It was not heavy and overpowering in salt, but rather well balanced with the pickle adding an additional staccato to the proud appetizer.
The baby radish heavily relied on the whipped cod roe to bring it to life. Ironically, the cod roe was the one that looked a little sad and lifeless while the radish was vibrant. Without the dip, it was bland. The whipper cod roe was a delight however, in its balance of sweet and freshness whilst being smooth and creamy (so enjoyable so, I had it with my bread).
The cracker had a light, aerated texture and a gentle seaweed fragrance. The eggplant was nice and sweet, but had made the cracker a little soggy where the dollops were.
Moving forward - the first two entrees were King fish and Zucchini. The king fish was served with smoked eel and coastal herbs. It was simple, with the soft delicate fish being complemented by sweet green strawberries that added slight resistance and crunch. Light, refreshing and an exemplary model of spring.
The zuchhini was served two ways; ribbon and chopped. It had been grilled and served straciatella; a creamy, fresh soft cheese. The salad was very clean and did not carry strong flavours, and was an interesting new experience for the palette. It felt however, as though it was missing an element to tie the dish all together - perhaps a hint of acidity.
Disappointingly, the wait between the next couple of entrees was comparatively long. First, we tried the smoked pork. The presentation resembled of Christmas on a plate, and we could not help but smile at the sight of it. The pork was well seasoned without being overly salty. It was thinly sliced and served with mustard, leek and apple - tying a sweet note to the dish. It was vibrant in flavour, without being too bold. Somewhat charismatic, and contemporary.The roasted carrots smelt so delicious from the moment it came to our table. The intensity of the colours was inviting. The carrots; soft and sweet with a light crunch of almonds to add a nutty contrast. The lentils had been cooked with squid ink and added a chewy bite to the meal. The dish carried earthy undertones - the additional almond cream was a welcomed element.
For mains, I decided to be bold and different, by ordering chicken. Generally, restaurant 101 would tell me to stay away from chicken. I am glad I didn't. The chicken; absolutely tender and soft almost so that it melted in your mouth. Combined with pancetta to season the dish, and smokiness from the cauliflower and Pompeii onions, this course was well balanced and carried homely flavours that did not recede to a level of boredom after a few mouthfuls.
To finish, again I strayed from my normal choice and decided to go with the mango bar. Refreshing, creamy and sweet. On the side was a black rice pudding, which had a slight resistance in texture; adding depth to the melting bar. The jasmine cream was very light and soft in fragrance, ensuring that it did not overpower the dish. The almonds added a very delicate crunch and the fresh, diced mangoes were divine.
All in all, the Sunday Lunch experience made for a very relaxed, simple yet enjoyable choice. It didn't try too hard to be something extreme and different. It celebrated being unique, but at the same time respected well known pairings to bring a successful menu together. Plating was beautiful, simple and clean - giving me a chance to be trigger happy with my camera. It is a worthwhile spot for a Sunday afternoon where you have nowhere in particular to be, and all the time in the world.
2016... It has been tiring to say the least, but it has utmost rewarding as well. My love for food has been cultivated. There have been times where I have gotten stares, whispers, and rude remarks for taking photos. At the beginning, it was disheartening. But if you love what you do, and do what you love; I have learned not to let another's opinion dishearten me.
I have been challenged. I have stumbled a few times, but I have grown more than I dared to think I could. I have found myself surrounded by the most wonderful of people. From the bottom of my heart, I am thankful to each person who has encouraged me to chase my dreams and supported me all the way. To every compliment, constructive criticism and suggestion. Thank you for making me better, and for helping me get to where I am today.
I have laughed, I have loved, I have lived.
Cutler & Co.
A: 55-57 Gertude St. Fitzroy VIC 3065
Ph: 9419 4888