It's im-pasta-ble not to feel this way

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Melbourne's Italian game has never looked quite so strong.

Italian restaurants are often institutional sensations in the industry, and there is no question of whether they are worthy or not. Years of refinement of concepts and flavours; the strive for perfection while showcasing each of the key ingredients for the selected dish. Understanding what goes well, and what can make it even better. Respecting food and fresh produce, and using it as a canvas to create a masterpiece.

I am not typically a fussy eater. I have a broad spectrum from the high and mighty fine dining experiences to the humble cheap eat, and am always more than happy to be introduced to further culinary exposure and deepen my knowledge. But when it comes to planning dates for bubba and me, I take it extremely seriously. I search endlessly for weeks (or I daresay months) to find a true contender that seems to have 'it' - the little characteristics and nuances of the eatery that will dish up something so unforgivingly good, that it will leave a lasting impression that our taste buds will beg us to revisit soon.

Il Bàcaro Cucina e Bar has been on my radar for quite some time now for its graced up looking desserts, to the succulent Moreton bay bugs with embellish their signature spaghettini dish. The numerous reviews, photos and proud credibility of over 20 years' experience provided all the assurance that this place would be good. The only battle I had, was after witnessing first hand the goodness of the tagliolini al nero from friendly rival pasta bar Tipo 00, whether Il Bàcaro would rise to the occasion.

If I were to be completely honest, the ambiance stumped of the restaurant stumped me a little. It was definitely intimate, being a small restaurant. However, when we stepped into Il Bacaro, we felt a bit uncomfortable from the stares we got from the wait staff, who continued with their wine tasting as though attending to us were not a priority. While the interiors were quite modern, I felt this place was borderline eerily quiet and dark. Thankfully this was short lived, as our waiter was more than gracious in attending to us during the evening.

Our dining experience began with complementary bread and olive oil, before we had (the obvious choice of) fresh Tasmanian oysters served with lemon and vinaigrette. As per my previous posts, I always harp on about much I love to begin a meal with oysters. The strong acidic flavour combined with the subtle sea taste provides the perfect methodology to wake my sensations and invite me to begin eating. 

To share, bubba and I had the carpaccio di manzo (wagyu carpaccio). The thinly sliced wagyu with the anchovy provided an intense saltiness which was slightly lulled from the creamy soft boiled quail egg.The radish component was pickled and gave a crisp crunch to counter the softness of the other elements. The dill mayonnaise contrasted with the bright reds, and looked beautiful on the plate. It provided a very subtle sweetness to tie the dish. 

For mains, there was no question for bubba to order the spaghettini con cicale di mare (spaghettini with Moreton bay bugs). The pasta was perfectly cooked, and tossed with a a few, selected ingredients of chilli, rocket, garlic, oil. The dish was contemporary on a plate, yet a dance on some classics at the same time. I can distinctly remember the smell of the pasta as the waiter walked by with it. The sweet aroma of the sea from the white wine and fish stock the dish had been cooked in was warm and exciting. I couldn't help but feel a bit of disappointment that I had not ordered this myself, but bub gave me some to try. The first bite was everything and more you could ask for. The bugs had been cooked spot on and were soft like butter with each bite. The fresh sweetness paired well with the light hints of heat from the chilli. The marriage of the olio visadi was present and moderate. The plate was flawless and light. It was nothing in the department of bold flavours, yet conveyed so much power with its simplicity and honesty. 

I decided to try the pappaderlle con ragu di capretto. The broad, flat strands had latched on to the flavours of the ragu. The goat was beautifully soft but unfortunately the reduced sauce was quite salty.The truffled pecorino continued with the theme of saltiness, and added a note of heaviness to the dish. The dish was still enjoyable to eat, but perhaps a better balance of seasoning or an additional note of acidity to cut through the richness of this dish would have been welcomed. The porcini was wonderfully succulent and soft, and grounded the dish with a very light earthy underlining. 

Dessert was a difficult decision, as each offering sounded as saliva-inducing as each other. Bubba and I were however, quite intrigued by the semifroddo alla zucca - a pumpkin semifroddo served with a white chocolate foam, blood orange, orange sherbet and chocolate aero. This course definitely highlighted that desserts can still be just as divine when they are not sweet. The frozen element was well seasoned, and the addition of pumpkin seeds gave the dessert a nutty bite, while the blood orange was interestingly sweet yet bitter at the same time. There was a juxtaposition between the two chocolates used; both were light and aerated. However, the dark chocolate aero was solid and its bitterness left a lasting taste on the palate while the white chocolate was very much like sea foam as the  waves come in; quickly dissipating once it touches the shore lines. 

There was no way that we would pass up the torta di formaggio e nettar di agave (agave nectar cheesecake), after the beautiful photos we had seen of this dish. I am not sure where exactly to begin with this dish, as I still can't quite pinpoint what sold me on this dish. As bubba had said, you often hear of chefs and critiques discussing of how dishes evoke emotions and memories. How a chicken roast can remind you of your mother's Sunday cooking; how a seafood bisque can remind you of that trip to Europe not too long ago. 

To be honest, I have never come across a dish - let alone a dessert, that has lost me for words quite like this. Perhaps it was the feeling of being a child, yet at the same time, the maturing of how happiness feels as you grow older. Following suit with our waiter's suggestion to try a little of everything all together, I felt my heart knocking my lungs as it soared with bliss.While this dessert was sweet; it was not overpowering and sickening. It was light and harmonious. However beautiful the plating was; the taste - unforgettable. It was genuine euphoria; from the cloud-like fluffiness of the cheesecake to the creme faiche tie the sweetness with a hint of tang. Each element just goes. The fairy floss just lightly dissolving as it touched the tongue, while the sorbet was light yet refreshingly rich. The use of plump, in season blueberries gave bursts of sweetness.

When I first saw the pop rocks on the menu for this dessert, I questioned on whether this would be a miss. Yet, it all made sense from that first spoonful. It may not have provided a vigorous punch in flavour, but wrote sensation on the tongue with the cool, crackle and pops. This induced my tongue to awaken to the flavours of the dish, and become more conscious of my taste buds.

Il  Bàcaro is a humble discovery for a those who love authentic Italian pasta. And it was such a bittersweet moment finishing this last bite to this meal, as it was so beautiful that you didn't want to leave.While it may not receive the same recognition and hype as other restaurants, I can say with no hesitations that this establishment is one of the best so far in Melbourne. It will make you question why you did not savour that marriage of flavour in each dish a little longer as you experienced it.

My only regret - not trying this restaurant any sooner.

Il Bàcaro Cucina e Bar

A: 168-170 Lt. Collins St, Melbourne VIC 3000

Ph: 9654 6678